To read more about Nick Duttle and his sending rampage across the country this spring, click on this link to read a write up by Alison Osius – Rock and Ice News about Nick Duttle.
I met Nick years ago at trade shows in the Salt Lake area and a few years back at a farm in Moab. I rode over to see some friends and saw that Nick was living in Moab… crushing every route at Mill Creek and truly loving the place, the environment and the desert. When he came out to send The Bleeding 5.14b up at Mill Creek he gave me a ring to meet up. On that day, I rigged the rope and headed over the cliff to see that he was already down there. He told me that their car wouldn’t start, so they push started it to get to the crag. That’s a warm up.
The history I’ve been told about The Bleeding, one of the hardest if not the hardest established route in the area is that it was originally bolted by a legendary rock climber named Tom Gilge. The first ascent was by one of the most talented desert rock climbers, Noah Bigwood ( I believe calling it .13d ). This steep line heads up an incredible overhanging prow of dakota sandstone, with just enough to link it up… if you’re really strong! Nick had been working the route for a bit, and this day was the day he could tick it off. The guy is so fluid, solid and never looks weak, not even through the crux. Move by move, locking off, dead pointing through the crux and clipping the anchor. This is the year he turned 30 and the year of linking it all up. Awesome Nick! Keep sending.
I have been published on the cover of Gripped Magazine, Feb 2011 . Take a look. PSYCHED! Jean-Pierre Ouellet on Conception 5.13+, Moab, UT. Conception, first climbed by Dean Potter and worked by many of the desert legends is a striking line on a slightly overhanging Navajo sandstone wall. Many people have tried this line and have taking huge whippers due to the sandy nature of the rock. When I watched Peewee on this route, he was as solid as could be… no problem, probably because he was wearing the 5.10 super mocc and he’s one of the most talented rock climbers, especially on the worst sized cracks like this line. While he was climbing he noticed that there were two sections he could rest after the meat of the crux… one was a leg rest… he would stick his foot straight in, up to his knee as seen on the cover and get some recovery. Who would have thought of that… I don’t think big feet would fit. Great send Peewee!
January 2011. The release of the Falcon Guide, Best Climbs Moab guide written by Stewart Green.
My photo appears on the cover of the guidebook. Chris Hill climbing the second pitch of Lonely Vigil route on Lighthouse Tower. The cover is shown below as well as a banner at the 2011 Outdoor Retailer Trade show in Salt Lake City. The banner is shown at the Falcon Guides booth.